Ultra-Low-Cost Infrared Digital Photography

in Tutorials
By ram5/Richard (2,016) Send mail to this user on October 13, 2002 4:27:27 AM CDT

The Camera
The Concept
Adding a Filter Holder
Zero Cost IR Filters
Comparing Results
Postscript
Additional JamCam IR Shots

The Camera

There is a little toy digital camera called the JamCam that is to digital cameras what the Holga 120 is to film cameras. The Holga doesn't have optics by Schneider or Carl Zeiss, and it isn't really much more than a plastic box with a fixed shutter, limited aperture control, a marginal lens, and a film advance knob. But it has been a fundamental tool for teaching photographic composition for years. Without the distractions of camera adjustments or automatic-everything, students can concentrate on composition. Check out the hundred or so pictures posted to PhotoSIG by Holga 120 users to see what I mean.

The JamCam takes modest 640 by 480 pictures (about a third of a megapixel) that are over-saturated, not overly sharp, and have an odd look about them that makes a JamCam shot easy to spot. The camera has a built-in flash, a socket for expansion memory, and connects to your computer through either a serial or USB port. It's not a camera that most PhotoSIG visitors would give a second glance, but look at the JamCam shots that Tamara M posted to PhotoSIG before you dismiss it entirely. Tamara proves that it's the photographer, not the camera that makes the difference. One of the things that makes a JamCam interesting (and useful for beginning photographers) is that you can often find them on sale for prices under $30. The day I got mine, the store was charging half that much for a USB cable like the one that comes packed-in with the camera.

 

The Concept

I turned to the JamCam as an experimental infrared camera when I discovered that my brand new Canon Powershot G2 was awful as an IR camera. Canon has placed a very efficient hot mirror (infrared blocking filter) somewhere in the optical path. As far as the G2 is concerned, there's very little difference between a IR filter and a lens cap. Frustrated by the G2, I set about seeing if I could turn the JamCam into a usable IR camera.

With conventional SLR cameras there are filter threads on the front of the lens, and the usual technique for IR filters is to thread a #87 or #89 glass filter onto the front of the lens. Rummaging through the back of my equipment drawer I found an old #89 filter and a little yellow envelope containing a #87c Kodak gelatin sheet filter. The gelatin filter was at least five years old, and I noted with amusement that the price on the sticker was higher than what I had paid for the JamCam.

The JamCam has no threads to which a filter could be attached, so I made some test shots just holding the glass filter in front of the camera, and some more with a scrap of the #87c gelatin filter held over the lens with a bit of Scotch tape at the edges. To my delight, in full daylight the camera produced usable IR pictures. The camera appears either to be moderately sensitive to infrared or at least to have enough exposure control to come back with a picture when you cover the lens with an IR filter and press the shutter button. The next step was to figure out how to jury-rig a filter holder onto the front of the JamCam.

 

Adding a Filter Holder

After considering a bunch of alternatives, it appeared that using the gelatin filter made more sense than trying to mount some sort of threaded ring to the front of the camera. Being a tinkerer by nature, I was aching for an excuse to disassemble the camera anyway, just to see what was inside. I pulled out my set of jeweler's screwdrivers and opened the JamCam. I convinced myself that it was safe to use a #56 drill to make a couple of small holes up to about 1/4 inch deep in the black plastic ring that surrounds the lens. With a pair of wire cutters I fashioned a filter holder out of a paper clip, and slipped it into the two holes. This lets me slide an inch-square piece of the gelatin filter in and out so I can mix infrared and normal shots at will.

 

Zero Cost IR Filters

But the real breakthrough came later that evening when I was browsing Professor Andrew Davidhazy's web pages. Prof. Davidhazy is Professor of Imaging and Photographic Technology at RIT, the Rochester Institute of Technology. He also knows more about photography just about all of us here a photoSIG put together. Hidden amongst the photographic treasure trove that is his web site, Professor Davidhazy posted a page titled Making an Improvised infrared Transmitting Filter. There he asserts that a sheet of unexposed but developed E6 slide film approximates the spectral transmission of a #87 filter, and he presents spectral response plots of real filters and E6 film to back up his assertion.

This was too good to be true! Virtually free IR filters to go with a truly affordable digital camera. So now digital IR photography is within the reach of everyone here at PhotoSIG. I scrounged through my slide and negative binders and found some of the little end-of-roll bits of slide film that get returned when you have slides processed. A piece barely half a frame in size (about four sprocket holes long) works perfectly as a filter on the JamCam. With the new filter in place I reshot my test images the next day.

 

Comparing Results

How does it work? See for yourself. Here are sample shots taken with the JamCam without a filter, and with three different infrared filters; a #89 glass filter, a #87c gelatin filter, and a scrap of unexposed but developed slide film. In my opinion, the no-cost IR filter performed as well as either of the commercial filters.


No Filter

#89 Filter

#87c Filter

E6 Film


The color and tonality of the shot through the no-cost E6 filter appears closest to that of the #89 filter. This may vary depending on the particular E6 film chosen. If you experiment with different films as IR filters, be sure to write an article for PhotoSIG and tell us all about your results.

 

Postscript

I didn't use a tripod to take those test shots, so each is from a slightly different position. If you are into 3D imaging, you've probably already noticed that the two shots in the center make a nice stereo pair.... but that's whole different article.

If you found this article useful or interesting, please take a moment to rate it. Thank you.

 

Additional JamCam IR Shots

Kelley Park, San Jose

 

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From giftlab/Gift (0) Send mail to this user on March 19, 2009 8:09:31 AM CDT

 

HOLGA PUNK

words and pictures by Elliot Muir Whenever art or culture gets too sophisticated and tidy, you’ll usually find some creative insurgent unpicking it all, urgently trying to find something random and rootsy underneath. The Holga camera is the latest incarnationof lo-fi chic, and is currently ripping up the red carpet of mainstream digital photography. Holga is unashamedly the worst camera ever made. All the flaws that grown-up camera manufacturers have spent decades trying to eradicate are joyriding around her insides. Technically she is classed as a toy camera, but don’t be fooled – in the right hands she’s a serious creative tool with the potential to make your brain glow rainbows.

Part of Holga’s great charm is that her users require hardly any photographic experience to start making quirky images. By far the best approach is to shoot first and ask questions later, but here are a few tips to help start you off.

WHERE TO BUY:

Buy your Holga online here or www.lomography.com Be very careful on ebay, most of them come from Hong Kong and include a Free Gift!! but you may have to wait2 Months!! for delivery. If you can’t wait, then try the Photographers Gallery in Covent Garden, but be preparedto pay more. You shouldn’t ever pay more than around £40 or £50 for a brand new Holga.

FILM:

Generally, most pros will agree that pound for pound, film yields more vibe than digital. Holga has been built to work with high grade 120mm film, which is fairly near the top of tree in terms of image quality and resolution. You usually get what you pay for – cheap grade consumer film is a false economy. To find out more, have a good look at www.lomography.com/filmshop – then check out www.ebay.com or www.7dayshop.com for the bestprices.

SHOOTING:

• Always make sure that the little switch on the bottom is set to N – this is the Normal setting. B stands for Bulb and you only use this at night for long exposures. Return it to N after making long exposures or you’ll blur and overexpose all your shots. • Holga needs a lot of light. You’ll probably find that you have to use flash for most shots that aren’t in bright sunlight. • Be careful with the back of the camera, it has a tendency to fall off and wipe your film. Opening the back of the camera very slightly with film inside will give you ‘light leaks’ – magical peachy stains of retro analogue authenticity. They’re great. • Pimp up your Holga. Go to www.squarefrog.co.uk and www.holgamods.com for detailed advice on modificationsand experimental techniques.

PROCESSING:

Most Holga people get their films processed by mail order. One popular place is www.spectrumimaging.co.uk but also try www.spectrumphotolabs.co.uk – they’re a bit more expensive but the quality of their work is faultlessand they still do proper B&W processing. On the high street, Snappy Snaps and Jessops are good, but pricey.

SHARING:

Show your pics on Flickr and you’ll soon get an idea of what works and what doesn’t. Flickr group forums are thebest place to find answers to any technical difficulties you may have. Check out – www.flickr.com/groups/86881528@N00/ www.flickr.com/groups/dontforgettotakethelenscapoff www.flickr.com/groups/holgachic www.flickr.com/groups/holgaweekly

SUCCESS

Holga is rapidly gaining acceptance as a legitimate tool for both editorial and fine art photographic work, so there are some pretty exciting new opportunities opening up. Just remember not to take it too seriously; Holga works best when you leave space for chaos. To check out another Holga camera, the Diana+ go here Elliot Muir is a graphic designer, writer and photographer – you can see more of his work at www.flickr.com/photos/elliotmuir

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